Yangtze (Day 7 - part 2)

The ferry dropped us at a large floating dock. This area is home to the Tujia minority. We then split up into smaller boats.

The Tujia, with a total population of over 8 million, is the 6th largest ethnic minority in China. Although there are different accounts of their origins, the Tujia trace their history back to the ancient Ba people who occupied the area around modern-day Chongqing some 2,500 years ago. The Ba Kingdom reached the zenith of its power between 600 - 400 BC but was destroyed by the Qin in 316 BC.


The large floating dock


The boatsmen await their passengers for the day. Due to the strenuous nature of the work, the men only do one run per day.


Putting on the life vests


Ready to go!


Mianzhu (Bamboo) Gorge

This gorge used to be renowned for its danger, with over 30 dangerous shoals covering the 2.5-mile route.


The oarsmen move us quickly and skillfully through the emerald water.


Janice tells us about her people and customs, and points out sites of interest.


In the back of the boat, the men keep us on course.


Stalactites hang on both sides of the bank.


Another boat rows past.


The pure water reflects off the cliffs.


A rower takes a break.

Before the construction of the dam, this section of the river became so shallow that the boats could no longer be rowed. Instead, men called trackers strapped ropes to themselves and hauled the boats through the dangerous rapids. After the dam, the water level changed from 1 foot to over 20 feet. The trackers still try to give tourists a feel of the old days, but instead of walking through the water, they walk along the banks while pulling the boats.


The trackers jump from the boats and scurry up the hill with their ropes.


They then pull the boats along from the sidelines.

Being a tracker wasn't necessarily a well-paid job and the work was very difficult. As a result, they worked naked, to save having to constantly buy new or repair their clothes. The images below, as well as the song, are taken from a dvd called The Shennong Stream/Ba Dong Tujia Folk Songs.

We then turned around and headed back downstream.


Janice sings a traditional song with her fellow boatsman.


Houses lie hidden on the top of the hill.


Another, almost invisible, home is nestled among the trees.

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