SWAZILAND & KRUGER (Day 15)

It rained so hard last night that the roar woke us up. It sounded like standing behind a waterfall! Fortunately it had stopped by the time we arrived at the Mantenga Nature Reserve & Swazi Cultural Village. We drove through the lovely reserve until we reached the village.

We met Paul who gave us a tour. The village was a collection of traditional Swazi huts currently inhabited by a man, his two wives, children and other immediate family. This living museum demonstrated the daily lives and traditions of the Swazi people during the 1850's. It was mainly meant to enable Swazis to maintain a positve interest in their cultural heritage. The village was a complex of 16 huts, each with its own purpose. All the materials used were traditional: wooden poles, thatching grass, saplings, grass ropes, reeds, leather strips, and even cow-dung (used to polish floors).

A total of 17 people currently lived here. According to tradition, the first and last born sons must remain in the village. They lived in huts with their wives, while their children slept in the same hut with other family members of their own age. Boths wives each had three huts (a kitchen, a bedroom, and a storage/beer brewing place). The head of the family had his own private hut. He could either sleep alone or with a wife or a girlfriend. We also learned that at any time if he was dissatisfied with his wife, he could return her and get his cows back.

He led us through the forest to the nearby Matenga Waterfall, a 310-foot tall double falls. It is one of Swaziland's largest in terms of water volume. It is also said to be where they would kill murderers by tossing them over the falls. Supposedly the real name of the river is Ligi-izutu; Mantenga is the name of a man they executed.

We tried to get to Sibebe but kept getting lost. So we gave up and made our way to the border. School kids filled the road on their way home. Again it was a very confusing and complicated border crossing. By this time, the rain had started up again.

In the afternoon we arrived at the Malelane gate of Kruger National Park. We made our way slowly to Pretoriuskop, admiring many amazing animals.... some of them (mostly the birds) rather unhappy with the weather.

Zebras only begrudgingly let us pass.

Believe it or not, elephants can be hard to spot because of their shadowy color. This was a herd of about six, including two little ones. They moved away quickly as soon as we spotted them.

A male impala stands between us and his females.

A colorful European Roller

A timid female Kudu grows bold as the sun starts to set.

We arrived in camp, checked into our little cabin, had some dinner and showered. A large herd of impala grazed outside.

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