DRAKENSBERG (Day 11)

We did a 2-hour hike in the morning. We hacked our way through some thick vegetation and took a refreshing drink at Two Dassie Stream (one of the few 100% clean sources of water left in the world).

Eventually we reached the Main Caves high on a hill. A ranger pointed out the various cave art to us.

Hunter-gatherers have lived in this area from 5,000 years ago to the 19th century. During this time they lived in tiny open-sided caverns nestled under the rock overhangs. In the last 1,800 years, the bushmen drew images of their daily life on the sandstone walls and ceilings. There were many images of animals, ranging from domestic cows, sheep, goats, and horses to wild antelopes, elephants, monkeys, crocodiles, leopards and even a jumping lion. There were also drawings of people, including men carrying bows, women with children and Europeans with guns. Medicine men (wearing animal head masks) were always drawn much bigger because they were considered to be very powerful.

We had another nice lunch back at our bungalow then set out again for a 4-hour hike... this time in the other direction to World's View. On our way out, we talked with a ranger who said it didn't look like it would rain (in spite of all the dark, ominous clouds). But after our ordeal yesterday, we bought some plastic ponchos just to be safe. Again, the woman said it hadn't rained for two weeks before yesterday. We climbed hill after rolling grassy hill, each one offering a more spectacular view. In the valleys far below, we watched grazing herds of antelope. The vastness of the area was almost hard to fathom.

We arrived at the point at 2 pm. We rested a bit... wary of the winds picking up and the dark clouds above the high mountains that seemed to be moving our way. When we heard the first peal of thunder and saw the first bolt of lightning scar the sky, it became a race against the storm. Of course, we were destined to lose.

We struggled getting into our ponchos with the whipping wind as the first large drops began to fall. The lightning and thunder grew closer and closer. Then came the hail. Almost instantly, our hiking trail became a raging torrent of icy water. We did our best to make our way off the top of the ridge, but again, there was nowhere to hide. We were the tallest (and only) things around. Suddenly the full fury of the storm was upon us. We scurried down the hillside and crouched by a small rock, deep in the frigid water that swirled around us. The lightning was blinding as it struck the ridges around us. It was accompanied instantly by ear-shattering thunder. The earth literally shook.

At the first chance we got, we darted down the path. Unfortunately all the cute little streams we had easily hopped across in a single bound were now raging rivers. One was so large that we had to climb up to where a large rock sat in the center of it. We formed a human chain to reach the rock, hip deep in the water, then did the same thing to reach the far side. One slip and we'd be swiftly carried over the waterfall a short ways away.

Then just as yesterday, the storm stopped almost instantly and the sky was blue again. Aside from the waterfalls that now poured from the cliffs and the extremely full rivers, there was no real sign the storm had even happened. Back at the visitor center, we changed into what dry clothes we had left. We spoke to the same ranger we'd talk to before who now suddenly confessed that people die here every year from being hit by lightning in the "regular" afternoon storms. Uh... that bit of info might have been handy BEFORE our hike.

We left in the early evening and drove to Mziki Backpackers at Mooi River. It wasn't too far of a drive but the dirt road in had become slippery mud. When we arrived at the old farm, two women were busy lighting candles and gas lamps since they had no electircity. They cooked us dinner and hung our clothes on a line to dry. The shower was located in the outside shed. The giant bolts of lightning proved to be far brighter than my lantern. Fortunately I made it back to the main house before the heavy rain hit.

Eventually the storm quieted and we all went to bed early.

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