WELLINGTON (Day 48)

Only one month left! The time has just been flying by!

We had some hot crossed buns for breakfast then headed out to the tide pools with the GoPro camera on the long broomstick. We drove to Sirens Rocks, near Rat Island. It too was part of the Taputeranga Marine Reserve so we were hoping to see lots of stuff. We had looked up the tide reports and it was supposedly low tide. I wanted to get some really neat "fly-bys" underwater over all the critters. But there was nothing! ... just a couple of cushion stars and a bunch of limpets. The wind was causing the water to be rather choppy, but I took some test footage anyway.


The empty tide pools


Limpets

So we decided to try the place we were the other evening, Te Kopahou Reserve by the old quarry. But the situation was exactly the same... rough water in the tide pools and even less sign of life. We didn't know if it was the wind or simply too early in the morning and the water hadn't been heated up enough by the sun to seduce the animals into coming out of their hiding places.


An overview of the cliffs and tide pools


Some choppy water


The highlight of the excursion... a dried out shell

So we gave up on the whole idea and went into town to do some errands downtown.


Having the windshield washed at a stoplight


Ok, ok, I get it now.

Old St. Paul's Church was open so we went in for a visit. A giant cruise ship had just pulled into Wellington and a small tour was going on. So we were invited to join and learn all about the lovely building. It was built in 1866 in the neo-gothic style. Since wood was abundant and stone was not, all of the incredible vaulting, walls, pillars and floor were beautiful colors of different native woods. Besides, this place also had more earthquakes than the ol' European homeland. The main center building was built first but the transepts were added fairly quickly, to stabilize the place during strong winds (since they had cut down all the trees and bush, there wasn't much to protect it).

At some point, with only being able to hold 420 people, the church became too small and a newer, larger one was built a couple blocks away which can hold around 1200 people. While this is no longer an active church but rather a historical monument, it is still considered consecrated ground. Today it is a multi-denominational building and is used for weddings, concerts and even religious services (but it's a bring-your-own clergy type of thing).


There were plenty of large trees by the church now.


What the area looked like back then.


The beautiful vaulted ceiling... just like a European church... but not.


Gorgeous wood


The organ and the altar

Much of the stuff in the old church (including the organ) was taken over to the new church. So this current organ was built especially for Old St. Paul's.


The pulpit was carved from English oak


There were many beautiful stained glass windows.


Most of the windows were made in London, but two of them with vibrant blue (including this one) were made in Germany.


This US flag only has 48 stars (before the additions of Alaska and Hawaii). It was donated to the church by the United States Marine Corp in 1942, symbolizing the bond the two countries had formed during WWII.

Next we drove up to Percy Scenic Reserve. It was a very large area dedicated to the preservation of native plant species. Our main goal here was to find glow worms and wetas (the ugly cricket-like things), but because of the drought, the cave was dry and empty.


Nothing scary in the cave today

So we hiked around to other areas of the reserve, starting with the waterfall. The trail was incredibly lush and gorgeous, filled with the songs of tui birds. The path started out following next to a river but soon we were high above it, following the mossy green cliffs deep into the bush. The path eventually turned into a wooden walkway, with the river now a series of trickling brooks connected by tiny cascades.


A spider web sparkles amidst the lush setting.


The path to the waterfall. The rocks were so thickly covered with moss that they simply looked green.


So much dense vegetation!


The destination! There wasn't a lot of water, but it was still lovely.


Doing what kiwis do... drawn to water.

We next hiked up to the top of the lookout point, which was also the entrance for the Stanhope Grove.This dark world was filled with life and sound. A tui bird gave us a stellar concert and a fantail danced on the trail around us for a bit.


It was hard to get a view through all the thick giant vegetation.

We eventually found ourselves at the bottom of the hill and decided to take one more trail, the Rata Track. Again tui birds filled the overhead foliage, calling out their bizarre tunes. We made it to a viewpoint (and a rata bush) and sat on a bench for a while.


A tui feather found on the path down

Eventually hunger started to call. We hiked back down and drove home. We pulled up to the loud sounds of an intense announcer and monotonous chanting/singing. There was a cricket game (or perhaps a rugby game) going on at the local field. This field, mind you, was probably over a mile away, but the noise was VERY loud. It must have been deafening down at the field itself!


The noise: here....The field: a loooooong way away

A quick piece of feijoa chocolate took the edge off as we walked to the grocery store. I was going to make the one and only thing I can make... breakfast burritos.

Imagine my shock to find that a can of refried beans cost $6! That is over three time what I normally pay for the high-end organic refried beans at home. They don't do a lot of Mexican (at least not traditional Mexican) around here, so the ingredients are simply not in great demand.

In general, one needs to be aware of what is in the packaged foods here, just as in the States. Just because it says "healthy" on it, doesn't mean it actually is. I haven't found high fructose corn syrup yet, but then again it could simply be under another name.


Margarine Beef Fat?? In ginger snaps?

I made my burritos and they came out ok. The tortillas were small and dry and cracked when we tried to roll them. But for the most part, it tasted ok.... and a bit like home.


WELLINGTON (Day 49)

Regan made some yummy omelettes for breakfast this morning. He also had a Kiwi/Australian favorite... "Vegemite". This stuff was unbelievably salty and awful! I couldn't handle more than a tiny bite. But he loved it. I suppose it's all what you are used to. In the Netherlands, they have this salty licorice that they call candy... no one else would!


Vegemite - "concentrated yeast extract"

We stopped by the farmer's market in town. It was fun to see large amounts of things like mangos, kiwis, passion fruit and feijoas.


Several different colors of broccoflower

We drove around town doing a couple more errands... such as getting groceries for a pie as well as the surprisingly difficult quest to find a pie pan. Then it was home again to create the most disgusting looking pie ever.

I'm not exactly sure how or when we decided to actually make this thing, but the general gist of the story is so: Regan had seen some b-movie called Shartopus (a half shark, half octopus monster). I had asked if the plural would then be sharktopi? From there it merged to a dessert (sharkto-pie) and we began to wonder what would be in such a pie. We figured tentacles, slime, blood, perhaps a giant eye.


Kiwis and greengage plums simmer in honey, red wine and some rhubarb & berry jam


Much to my incredible delight, the vanilla custard tasted exactly like my favorite type of Dutch dessert called vla! Aah, the childhood memories abounded! Here I am mixing it with some of the chunky seed-filled jam.


Filling the pie, first with a layer of slimy fruit (darn, we forgot to get some passion fruit!), then a healthy coating of slimy custard.


With the leftover pastry dough, we made a few yummy filled rolls... such as peanut butter & feijoa chocolate.

The slimy mess was then topped with banana tentacles and cashew shark fins. It was a total success! It looked absolutely awful but tasted great!


Adding the final crowning decoration


So ugly and yet so good!


WELLINGTON (Day 50)

Shortly after leaving for work, Regan texted me to say he'd had an accident on his bike... fortunately nothing too bad, just some bumps and bruises. It sounded like his biggest 'injury' was not wearing the GoPro at the time!

The wind continued to get worse throughout the day. I had a bit of laundry on the line but ended up bringing it inside for fear of losing it. The internet also went out for a while. Mostly I prepared for tomorrow, aka the start of the next big adventure. I backed up files, charged batteries, cleaned off camera cards, etc.

Regan had lied about the extent of his injuries. It wasn't just something minor... he was quite banged up! Both elbows, one arm and hand and one knee were all scrapped up and looking awful. Suffice to say we made it an easy night. We found a bunch of stuff in the cupboards and fridge to put together a creative meal... pasta noodles from the night before, some corn from the burritos, etc. Add a jar of sauce and presto... dinner. Top it all off with a piece of slimy pie and life is good.

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