BEIJING (Day 3 - part 4)

The hutongs (or alleys) are basically formed by lines of siheyuan, or traditional one-story courtyard residences. These compounds consist of an outer courtyard surrounded by several buildings. In the old days, this area was home to around 100,000 people. In 1949, the government took over the area... taking people's homes, tearing down the traditional buildings and temples, and constructing large factories. As a result of all the new jobs, the population jumped to 9 million. Then about five years ago, all the factories were moved 50 miles outside of town. The number of residents dropped to 300,000 and left a 40% unemployment rate for those who couldn't move. Many currently live off of money from the government to survive.

Life here is generally hard. The average living area is only 20 square feet per person. There are no bathrooms in the homes, only public facilities. The area only got running water 30 years ago. Before then were town wells. Electricity arrived in the 1950's. Winters are cold but burning coal on inside stoves is now banned.

Madam Wong and Mr. Liu

Like many people, Madam Wong had her home become goverment property. From 1958 - 2005, she had to house 50 people in the 18 rooms. Fortunately she was among the 1% who got their homes returned to them. She now lives here with her husband and a few other family members.


The entrance to the 200 year-old home


Mr. Liu shows us the outer courtyard.

Mr. Liu is a former engineer and has been retired for 5 years. Madam Wong has been retired for 7 years and was a librarian for 29 years. Men are required to retire between the ages of 60 - 65, and women between 50 - 55.


A mynah bird chatters away. These birds are capable of mimicing melodies as well as human speech.


Lest you forget, it's the year of the rat!


The windows open between rooms.


The fridge is located in the living room, not the kitchen.


Madam Wong gets many visitors... including people like Oprah Winfrey.


A side building


Braids of garlic

We made our way out of the hutong and back to the bus.


In the hutong, tradition lives...


... side by side with the future.


The bell tower


Playing a game


There is a 1,000 yuan (almost $150) dog tax per year. Most people therefore keep these pets illegally and only let them out at night after the police go home.

It was then off to dinner back in the city.


Tony has to move a few bikes in order for the large bus to make a tight turn on the narrow streets.


There are around 17,000 taxis in the city, easily identified by their colorful paint jobs.


A government building


Typical traffic


Brave building cleaners


Admiring the flowers


Right of way seems to based on size.


Mark and Tony have to move a few gates in the rain for the bus to have enough room to park.


Another rat welcomes us.


A typical dinner

After dinner, we said goodbye to Tony and Mr. Li and hopped on an 8 pm flight to Wuhan. We were met by Christina and Mr. Dong and brought to the Wuhn Jin Jiang International Hotel.

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