SAN ANTONIO (Day 2 - part 1)
We left early and headed to Palo Duro Canyon, also nicknamed "The Grand Canyon of Texas" for both its size and rock formations (multicolored layers and steep canyon walls). It's the second-largest canyon in the US, being around 120 miles long and up to 20 miles wide in some areas (although with an average width of 6 miles). It ranges from 820 to 1,000 feet deep. The canyon was formed by the Prairie Dog Town Fork Red River during the the last Ice Age (2.5 million years to some 12,000 years ago) when the entire area was uplifted.
We entered Palo Duro Canyon State Park with the hopes of doing a couple hikes. But again, everything was exceedingly flooded. So we contented ourselves with just doing a driving tour, which meant stopping at overlooks but missing some of the more notable formations.
The pullout at the visitor's center (which was closed) overlooked the canyon as well as an historic CCC (Civilian Conservation Crops) trail that led to the canyon floor. We could see the ruins of several of the old buildings and bridges.
We drove to the bottom of the canyon, which ended in a one-way loop, and stopped briefly for some lunch around some camp sites. We Were surrounded by mesquite trees and a barn swallow even made an appearance.
Heading down into the canyon
Yup, lots and lots of mud!
Mesquite is one of the most common trees in the dry landscapes of Texas. They produce long fruits (or pods).
From time to time we saw a roadrunner running where roadrunners obviously must... down the road. Once I tried to stalk it to get a photo... but yup, it was too fast!
Capitol Peak (left photo)
We then began to long 7.5 hour drive to San Antonio.
Towns ... and farmland
Refineries .... and grain silos
Many large vehicles
Trains
Plenty of wind turbines ... and one of the MASSIVE propellers was even being transported!
Welcome to the City of Saint Anthony!
Since the mid to late 1600s, Spanish explorers and Franciscan missionaries had ventured up from Mexico (then under Spanish rule) to discover hospitable areas for new settlements. On June 13, 1691, a small expedition stopped to set up camp near a friendly native village situated on a river. Because they had arrived on the feast day of St. Anthony, they named both the river and the spot San Antonio.
Anthony of Padua (born Fernando Martins de Bulhoes, 1195 - 1231) was born in Portugal and became a Catholic priest and friar of the Franciscan Order. He spent time in Morocco, Italy and France, preaching as well as helping the sick and the poor. He died from the effects of long term ergot (a fungus grows on rye and grains) poisoning at the age of 35.
St. Anthony
By 1716, the Spanish government had established several missions in the far eastern part of Texas. The nearest Spanish settlement, however, was 400 miles away (along the Rio Grande). To assist these missionaries, the governor of Spanish Texas, Martin de Alarcon, decided to create a new community near the halfway point.... at San Antonio.
Martin de Alarcon
So in 1718, he and Fray (or Father) Antonio de San Buenaventura y Olivares founded the mission San Antonio de Valero (which we now know as the Alamo), named in honor of the Viceroy of New Spain... who was at the time the Marquess of Valero, Baltasar de Zuniga y Guzman (son of the Duke of Bejar). A marquess (or marquis in French) is a rank below a duke but above a count or earl; a viceroy is the ruler of a colony on behalf of a sovereign, such as a king.
Baltasar de Zuniga y Guzman
Alarcon also established a nearby protective fort, the Presidio San Antonio de Béxar (also written Bejar), as well as the first civilian Spanish community in Texas, the Villa de Bejar, which housed mostly the families of the soldiers and those of prior expeditions. The fort was also intended to secure Spain's claim to the region from other European powers (especially the French who were also expanding into that area from Louisiana and were at war with Spain). Within the following decade, four more Franciscan missions were established along the banks of the San Antonio River, all within a few miles of each other. Each mission was self-sufficient with a church, granary, living quarters, workshops, fields and pastures.
We checked into a charming La Quinta Inn, right near the heart of the historic downtown and next to the San Antonio Market Square.
1 - River Walk • 2 - The Alamo • 4 - San Fernando Cathedral • 6 - Market Square (right next to our motel)
We then took a big walk around the historic downtown, briefly taking in some of the major sites and getting our bearings for more exploring tomorrow. We started with the colorful Market Square, which has been the site of a public market for over 100 years. It was renovated in 1976.
Yes, he is indeed holding a chicken.
Crossing through Milam Park, we continued towards downtown...
A fun mix of modern and historic architecture
We passed the Presidio (or old fort)...
The Conquistador by Enrique Monjo was a gift from the Spanish government in 1977... so apparently no hard feelings (since they eventually got kicked out of the city).
Next door was city hall, located on the Plaza de Armas (which used to be the walled courtyard of the Presidio). Built in 1888 - 1891, it was designed by Otto Kramer in an Italian Renaissance Revival style, including an octagonal clock tower. But in 1927, all the towers and turrets were torn down, a fourth floor was added and the clock was removed.
1892 city hall
Moses Austin (1761 - 1821) was the first man to obtain permission to bring Anglo-American settlers into Spanish Texas. In 1797, Moses had made his way to Missouri (then part of Spanish Louisiana). In return for a land grant, he swore allegiance to the Spain Crown and promised to start some settlements. However in 1803, that area became part of the United States through the massive Louisiana Purchase. So in 1820, he travelled to the Presidio San Antonio de Bexar in Spanish Texas and was eventually awarded a land grant and permission to settle 300 families in Texas. Unfortunately he died shortly after, so his son, Stephen F. Austin, ended up carrying out his colonization plan in 1825, after having the old grant recognized a the newly established Mexican government. He then obtained further permission to settle another 900 families. Eventually the settlers won their independence from Mexico to become the Republic of Texas.
Franklin D. Roosevelt (32nd US president from 1933 until his death in 1945)
Known as the Cinco de Mayo obelisk, this structure was placed here in 1984 in recognition of the contribution of the Hispanic to this Texas' unique culture. The eagles on top resemble the Mexican coat of arms.
The San Fernando Cathedral (Cathedral of Our Lady of Candelaria and Guadalupe) lays claim to being the oldest church in Texas. The first version of the church was started in 1738 (several years before the stone church of the Alamo was begun) and the old sanctuary walls still stand.
The back and side...
... and front
The church was named for Ferdinand III (1199/1201 - 1252), who ruled as the King of Castile, King of Leon and also the King of Galicia. His statue watches over the city from an alcove high up in the front facade of the mighty church.
A statue of San Antonio de Padua (St. Anthony), another gift from Spain in 1955
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